Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Dying Yarn

I have decided to try my hand a dying yarn. So I went and bought a cone of Lily Sugar 'n Cream 100% cotton, White. We used Tulips One-Step Tie-Dye Kit and we watched this video how to first
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSzM28hB87o   We did it both was and we weren't as happy with the results of the ball method as we were the other way.


Plastic Canvas Tissue Box Covers

I made another Bare Bones Skull hat in shades of blue and now have to make one in orange and black. You can buy the pattern here   http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bare-bones-hat-crochet

I also finished 2 plastic canvas tissue cover boxes. I got the kits from Mary Maxim

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

I have created a new pattern that I call 'Butterfly Bookmark Pen/Stylus Holder". You can find my pattern here listed under "Crochet Patterns" or on Ravelry.

 A big thanks to Suzetta Williams for testing this pattern for me and for allowing me to base my tail on the tail of her Fan Bookmark pattern. You can find her pattern here

Butterfly Bookmark Pen/Stylus Holder

Butterfly Bookmark Pen/Stylus Holder                                 


MATERIALS: Red Heart Super Saver I used Sherbert Print, Orchid and a small amount of Black
Size E (3.5 mm) & D (3.0, 3.25 mm) crochet hooks, Stitch marker, needle, large button and white glue

Stitch:  Ch-Chain,  DC-Double Crochet,  HDC-Half Double Crochet,   SC- Single Crochet,   
*SC Dec- Single Crochet Decrease,   SS-Slip Stitch,   TR-Treble Crochet

Special Stitch: *SC DEC- Insert hook in next stitch, draw up a loop, YO and draw through 1 loop. Insert hook in next stitch, draw up a lp (3 loops on hook), YO and draw through all 3 loops.

Using E Hook
TAIL: Ch 80, sc in the 5th ch from hook. *Ch 4, skip 4 chs, sc in next ch.  (Do not let chain twist.) Repeat from * until 5 chains remain, sc in last chain.

Pen/Stylus Holder
Ch 8, slipstitch through the top of last sc and threw to the chain it was done, to form loop. Ch 1, turn.
Black thread shows where to insert the hook for joining.
For the next 22 rounds, or however long you need it to be for your pen or stylus, pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Rnd 1: sc in each stitch around (8sc)
After doing this first round take the tail and insert it into the circle of sc’s of rnd 1 and pull it all the way through.

Rnd 2-22: continue sc around.
Rnd 23: sc, scdec  3 times around
Rnd 24: 3 scdec around, ss to next stitch.
 Fasten off and leave a 4 to 6 inch tail for sewing on Butterfly, you can weave this through the stitches about 1 inch up from the bottom.

Using D Hook
Rnd 1: Ch 8, ss to first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (ch 2 counts as a dc), dc, ch 1 in ring. *2 dc, ch 1. Repeat from * 6 more times. SS to top of chain 2. (16 dc, 8 ch 1)
Rnd 3: SS in next dc and into chain 1 space. Ch 1, *sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc in this chain 1 space and repeat from * in next chain 1 space.  In the next 2 chain spaces work the following **sc, hdc, dc, tr, ch 3 and ss into the first chain forming a picot, dc, hdc, sc. Repeat from * in the next 2 chain 1 spaces and in the last 2 chain 1 spaces repeat from ** . ss to chain 1.  Fasten off.
With Picots on both sides, see photo below, fold in half. Tie black yarn around center. Cut yarn and if you want the antennae to be stiff put drop of white glue on them and work it in with your fingers.

 Sew Butterfly about 1 in up from the bottom of the holder.

Alternate version; sew a large button (I used a decorative button) on instead of the butterfly.

To get the butterfly through the chain 4 space openings pass the bottom of the wings first then the top over the center of the butterfly and then the bottom of the other side and then the upper wings. You may have to pull the antennae through afterwards.


Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Pumpkin Bag

Pumpkin Bag
Worsted Weight Yarn
Orange, black, green, light green and warm brown
H Hook
yarn needle
1. Read through all instructions before beginning.
2. Beginning ch 2 doesn’t count as a stitch.
3. Pull the joining slipstitches tight, so that they don’t get counted as a stitch on the following round


Rnd 1: with orange Ch 3, 6 hdc in 3rd chain from hook, ss to first hdc.

Rnd 2:
Ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around, ss to first hdc.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, 1 hdc in same stitch as joining

I had a friend over a few weeks ago and I was teaching her how to work with polymer clay. She loves it and is going to be getting her own supplies so she can make a polymer clay nativity. This is what we made when she was here
 I got a order for 2 more crosses along with the crosses I made a egg, there is a real egg under the clay. This is how they came out

Knit Puppy Lovey

My niece has created another GREAT knit lovey pattern. Check this out
Puppy Lovey
By Rachel Hill

Worsted weight yarn in 4 colors:
MC: 1 skein of pink  (blue)
CC1: 1 skein of tan   (brown)
CC2: small amount of white  (tan)
CC3: small amount of brown  (black)
24in. US #6 circular needles
Set of 5 US #6 dpns. to switch to when stitches no longer fit on circs
US #3 dpns
Safety eyes or black embroidery thread
Embroidery needle
4 stitch markers, one should be a different color to mark beginning of round.

Size: approx. 12" square 
Gauge is not really important but mine is 4"= 20sts and 24 rows in stockinette.

B/O = bind off
CC = contrast color
C/O = cast on
DPN = double pointed needles
K = knit
K2tog = knit two stitches together
MC = Main color
P = purl
PM = Place marker
Rnd = round
SSK = slip, slip, knit (slip stitches one at a time knitwise then knit them together through the back loop)
Sts = stitches
 [ ] = repeat between brackets specified amount if times

Main blanket:

With CC1 C/O 220 sts on circular needles
Join to work in the round being careful not to twist sts.
Rnd 1: pm, p55, pm, p55, pm, p55, pm, p55
Rnd 2: [ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog] 4 times.
Rnd 3: p around
Rnd 4: [ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog ] 4 times
Rnd 5: p around
Rnd 6: [ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog] 4 times
Rnd 7: p around
Cut working yarn and switch to CC2
Rnd 8: [ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog] 4 times
Rnd 9: p around
Rnd 10: [ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog] 4 times
Rnd 11: k around
Cut working yarn and switch to MC
Rnd 12: [ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog] 4 times
Rnd 13: k around
Repeat rnds 12 and 13 until you have worked a total of 53 rnds. You will have 12 sts left your needles. Switch to dpns when you stitches no longer fit
comfortably on your circs. I had to switch around rnd 30. You will now begin increasing for the head.

If you are a loose knitter you may want to consider going down a needle size so that your stuffing doesn’t show through the stitches of the head

Rnd 1: k1fb around (24)
Rnd 2: k24
Rnd 3: k1, k1fb around (36)
Rnd 4-20: k36
Stop here to make and sew on eye patch, place safety eyes (safety eyes are not recommended for babies as they could come loose and be a choking
hazard) or use embroidery thread to make eyes, embroider on nose and mouth and stuff head. For the nose I used satin stitch and I used duplicate stitch for the lines of the mouth. I would encourage you to do what looks best to you; you may know a better technique then me. Also I found it easier for me to place my live stitches on some scrap yarn while I worked the face, my dpn’s were just getting in my way.
Rnd 21: k1, k2tog around (24)
Rnd 22: k24
Rnd 23: k1, k2tog around (16)
Rnd 24: k16
Rnd 25: k2tog around (8)
Rnd 26: k8
Cut yarn and thread through remaining stitches to fasten off

Eye patch:

With your size 3 dpns and eye patch color of your choice C/O 6 sts divide stitches evenly onto 3 dpns and join to work in the round being careful not to twist sts.

Rnd 1: k1fb around (12)
Rnd 2: k12
Rnd 3: k1fb, k1 around (18)
B/O all sts

Make 2
With CC1, or color of your choice, C/O 12 sts onto size 6 dpns. Divide stitches evenly onto 3 dpns and join to work in the round being careful not to
twist sts.

Rnd 1-2: k12
Rnd 3: k1, k1fb around (18)
Rnd 4-30: k18
Rnd 31: k1, k2tog around (12)
Rnd 32: k12
Rnd 33: k2tog around (6)
Cut yarn and thread through remaining stitches to fasten off. Sew ears onto your puppy.


Turn your puppy upside down and through the hole in the bottom add any additional stuffing you may need. Once your puppy is stuffed to your liking put a few stitches in to close up the hole. Weave in any loose ends, and congratulations you have now finished your puppy lovey!

You may have noticed that my blue puppy is slightly different than the pink, that's because I made the blue one first and decided it needed slight modifications. Just in case you want to know here are the things I did different on the blue puppy.
I only c/o 180 sts so you would place markers every 45sts.
I only did 7 rnds of garter stitch border and used only one color.
Since I cast on fewer stitches I only worked 43 rnds before beginning head increases.
I used safety eyes because my 4 year old son decided it was for him and I don't have to worry about him getting the eyes out and choking on them. Thatis it, the only differences.
Happy knitting!

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Knit Owl Lovey by Rachel Pietzak-Hill

                                                       Knit Owl Lovey
                                                              Designed By  Rachel Hill 

Materials: worsted weight yarn in 4 colors,
For the main color I used Red Heart Cherry Chip(less than half the skein. Small amount of white and black for the eyes and a small amount, mine is a kind of mustard yellow for the beak.
Set of us #6 circular needles, I used 24 inch because it us the smallest size I have, 16in may be better.
Set of 5 #6 dpns (to switch to when stitches no longer fit on circulars)
#3 dpns (for the eyes)
4 stitch markers (I used 3 the same color and one different to mark beginning of round)
Tapestry needle,   Stuffing.
You will be working the lovey from the outside edges in, in the round.
Main blanket:
C/O 180 sts join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts. PM for beginning of rnd.
Rnd 1: p45, pm, p45, pm, p45, pm, p45
Rnd 2(decrease rnd) and all subsequent even rnds: *ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog* repeat decrease between each
marker, a total of 4 times. You will be decreasing a total of 8 sts.
Rnd 3: p all sts
Rnd 4: work as rnd 2
Rnd 5: p
Rnd 6: work as rnd 2
Rnd 7: k all sts (this will be the same for every odd rnd)
Repeat the last 2 rnds until you have worked a total of 43 rnds. Your last rnd will be a k all rnd and you should have 12 sts left.
You will now begin increases for owl head.
Rnd 1: k1fb, k4, k1fb, k1fb, k4, k1fb (16)
Rnd 2: k all
Rnd 3: k1fb, k6, k1fb, k1fb, k6, k1fb (20)
Rnd 4: k
Rnd 5: k1fb, k8, k1fb, k1fb, k8, k1fb (24)
Rnd 6: k
Rnd 7: k1fb, k10, k1fb, k1fb, k10, k1fb (28)
Rnd 8: k
Rnd 9: k1fb, k12, k1fb, k1fb, k12, k1fb (32)
Rnd 10: k
Rnd 11: k1fb, k14, k1fb, k1fb, k14, k1fb (36)
Rnds 12-20: k
Divide sts on 2 dpns to prepare to kitchener stitch head closed (but don’t close yet)
At this point I stopped to make and sew on the eyes and embroider on the beak.
To make eyes.
C/O 6 sts with white yarn on #3 dpns join to work in the round.
Rnd 1: k1fb all sts (12)
Rnd 2: k
Rnd 3: *k1fb, k1* repeat (18)
Rnd 4: k
Bind off all sts.
With black yarn and a tapestry needled I used duplicate stitch of center so it appears the owl is looking off to the side. For an alternate look you could cast on and work rnd 1 with black yarn then switch to white for remaining rnds (see picture
below). Sew on eyes
Embroider on beak as in picture (I didn’t right down how many sts and rows I was covering as I was doing it and I gave
the owl away already) just do what looks good to you!
Stuff the head (don’t stuff to much that you make it hard to close the head, you will be able to add more
stuffing after the head is closed)
Kitchener stitch the head closed
Flip your owl over and you can now add any additional stuffing through the small hole from where you started the
increases for the head. Once it is stuffed to your liking put in a few stitches to close up the hole.
Weave in any ends and you almost done, you just need to do the ears now.
 cut 8 strands of yarn maybe about 10in in length (4 for each ear). With a tapestry needle pull 4 strands of yarn half way
through the tip of one ear, tie a knot in the yarn to secure and trim strands to desired length. Repeat for second ear and you are done.
You can lightly block if you'd like (my corners sort of curled up a bit, I guess blocking would correct that, but I've never
blocked anything before) :-)

Close up of beak:                                                                                     Alternate version of eye:

             This pattern has not been tested. Please let me know if you make it and any comments you may have.